THE BEAUTY GAP
What is the hidden cost Black women face when living in the countryside?
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The UK is among the most diverse countries in Europe and a quick stroll through London would verify this, but branch beyond the M25 into the British countryside and you’ll be met by a white “middle class club”, as the government review in 2019 found many Black, Asian and ethnically diverse people think of the countryside.
Their feelings are not unfounded. According to the 2021 Census the population in rural England is 96.8% White and 3.2% ethnic minority groups. This percentage is not just Afro-Caribbean or Asian groups, but all of them combined. London, on the other hand, houses around 45% ethnic minorities.
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Now, people can choose to live wherever they like. After all, who doesn’t like the bright lights and glamour of big cities? However, with the cost-of-living crisis only increasing house prices and, well, the literal cost of living getting more expensive, many people are considering leaving London for smaller towns.
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Data from ONS: UK House Price Index: March 2023
Data from ONS: UK House Price Index: March 2023
So, if ethnic minorities decide to move out of the capital, what awaits them in the British countryside? More specifically what awaits Black women (like me) in rural England?
I spoke to three Black women who have moved around between London, the home counties, and beyond. Netre from Yorkshire, Jasmine from Dorset, and Abisola from Kent. All three women moved for different reasons ranging from work commitments to cost efficiency, but one thing they share is their surprise by the countryside’s hidden cost: The Beauty Gap.
Unlike the countless Afro hair stores, hairdressers and cosmetic stores in big cities, access to Afro hairdressers and haircare products was a constant battle for these women when they lived outside of London.
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AdobeStock Video
AdobeStock Video
N etre Shawa-Bell, 52, moved from London and lived in Wakefield in Yorkshire, where she quickly learned that Black women’s hair was the last thing on the small city’s mind. There were no beauty supply stores or hairdressers for Afro hair. After time and time again of getting turned away by salons, Netre took the matter into her own hands and started travelling between her home, Leeds and Huddersfield, for one hairstyle.
Countryside charm and cost efficiency may be reason enough for Netre’s White counterparts to pack up and head to the middle of nowhere. But they don’t have to think ‘where will I buy a new shampoo, or conditioner’ much less ‘what if no one knows how to cut my hair?’ For Netre and many other Black women, the countryside’s low crime rates, cheaper house prices, and refreshing greenery come with the added cost of travelling far and wide for basic beauty services. The Beauty Gap costs Netre 48 miles of fuel. In London she recalls trying dozens of hairdressers from all over the city, before finding a good fit. In Wakefield she had one option that was an hour's drive away.
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The cost of Netre's journey to the closest afro hairdresser
The cost of Netre's journey to the closest afro hairdresser
In the past signs in windows used to say No Blacks, No Irish, No Dogs. Now, salons might as well write no Black people’s hair in their windows.
Hairdressers would tell her they simply did not have the training for Afro hair because it's 'too hard to handle.' As far as Netre is concerned, the overt racism of the past that had windows with ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No Dogs’ signs has now been replaced by avant-garde posters of Black women with Afros in salons that refuse to even wash Afro hair.
Five hours away in the coastal town of Bournemouth 23-year-old Jasmine D’Arcy Johnson-Cole grew up with no local Black hhair shops and sparce Afro hairdressers. Throughout her childhood, she joined her mum on trips to neighbouring city Southampton which had a handful of shops.
You have to be able to afford it or you have to cut your hair off.
Travelling to another city just for a conditioner may seem dramatic, but it is an unavoidable expense. Afro hair requires more moisture than Caucasian hair, according to the NHS. A lack of moisture causes stress along the hair shaft which can lead to breakage even at low levels of tension. The average haircare product in big drugstores the likes of Boots is formulated for hair which gets greasy. If used on dry Afro hair, it is extremely stripping. Afro hair products can cost up 70% more than white hair products, according to Treasure Tress’ 2022 report 'The Untapped Opportunity in The UK Afro Hair Market.' The report also found that Black adult women in the UK account for 10% of haircare spend, although they make up only 2% of the UK adult population. Women in smaller towns have to pay for travel on top of the already inflated cost of products. Although it is expensive, Jasmine says: “You have to be able to afford it or you have to cut your hair off.”
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AdobeStock Video
AdobeStock Video
If Black women across the UK are facing some form of ‘texture tax’, those living in the countryside are facing an added cultural tax. Hair holds a significant role in Afro-Caribbean cultures. Having been frowned upon throughout history, Afro hair was often chemically straightened (relaxed) to fit European standards of beauty. This slowly changed following the civil rights movement in America in which Black people reclaimed the natural Afro state of their hair as a form of political resistance. In Africa, different braids and styles have long been a symbol of identity and community. So naturally, the Afro-Caribbean diaspora takes pride in their hair.
People said it was obvious that I didnt come from London, because of my hair.
When she moved to London for university, other students could instantly tell Jasmine wasn’t from London.The Beauty Gap is no secret to Black women across the country. They know what it looks like when their peers have not had the same access they have.
I don't want to be a hairdresser, I hate it.
There is, it seems, an easy solution to this gap. Black women should just build their own salons and assert their presence in rural spaces. But it’s not as simple as that. In the UK Black African and Black Caribbean groups are 4x and 3.5x more likely to be denied a loan respectively, compared to White groups. With ethnic minority groups as a whole being subjected to higher interest rates.So even if a Black woman wanted to open a salon, they may face institutional resistance.
Beyond this barrier is the simple reality that not all women want to be hairdressers. The same way that not every foodie wants to own a chain of restaurants. Netre doesn’t enjoy or have the patience for hairdressing, but she had to do her children’s hair out of necessity.
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But for those who have a passion for beauty, this gap has presented great opportunities. Abisola Aboh moved to Kent from London. She found that the average drug stores had nothing tailored for her and the black beauty stores she had become accustomed to in London were no longer available. In 2020, Abisola decided to create her own solution in the form of haircare brand Full Bloom Beauty.
Full Bloom Beauty sells products formulated specifically for Afro hair and even offers consultations for customers on how to take better care of their hair. Instead of having to travel far and wide, Abisola sells the products online and has found a consumer base in her ‘predominantly white’ area in Kent.
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Abisola Aboh, founder of Full Bloom Beauty
Abisola Aboh, founder of Full Bloom Beauty
It's not as bad as it used to be.
Although starting a haircare business is a great gain for the community, it is not without great costs.
But what challenges does Abisola face in running Full Bloom Beauty?
Finding customers outside of the community is very difficult and paying for advertisements and marketing is expensive, especially for a small business.
Production, marketing, shipping, and customer service are almost entirely handled by Abisola and her husband.
Abisola had to 'pay for the knowledge' by getting a diploma in beneficial ingredients for Afro hair. This was both time consuming and costly but necessary.
Production is expensive but the products have to rival cheap prices from bigger corporations.
Abisola is not alone in taking a solution-focused approach. Many have seen The Beauty Gap as an opportunity to create black hair services directories. Most notable is Rahel Tesfai, who founded FroHub, the largest Afro hair and beauty booking platform in the country. The hub does the leg work for women and finds hairdressers within a certain radius.
Even so, a directory is only as good as the services available. I searched for hairdressers in Hertfordshire and found plenty, but most of them were in London. When I changed the location to Wakefield, there was nothing within 25 miles.
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Across the UK, Black women have become accustomed to driving or taking trains to the next city just to buy hair products or get a new hairstyle. While this is a normal routine for many, it is also a constant reminder that they are not welcome in their towns, villages, or small cities.
Bridging The Beauty Gap not only saves people money, it also encourages ethnic minorities to branch out of metropolitan cities without hesitation. With more people having remote jobs, the option to move and feel welcomed in your new environment is more important now than in recent years.
Why, in 2023, is it still possible for someone to enter a hair salon and be turned away?
Have you ever been turned away by a hairdresser? Complete the survey to share your experiences.